The Frey

I just wanted to put this on here as a terrific example of what can happen when you make friends with other travelers:

I arrived in Bariloche, found the hostel, cruised the city, the norm. I whipped up a pasta dish but of course I made absolutely WAY TOO MUCH! I am still learning my way around the kitchen. As I offer my bountiful meal around, the first 2 takers are 2 young guys. One is from Melbourne, Australia and the other is also a gap year kid from Connecticut! Small world, ehh? We got to talk and these guys are rockclimbers. I am of course interested and start looking through all there picutres of where they have been climbing for the last three weeks up north. Their shots are filled with towers of rock and beautiful horizon lines with peaks that look like sand drip castle.

When I press for some more details, I come to discover that up north really means a public bus ride and a 4 hour hike away!!! I am suppose to be leaving this night for a 28hour bus ride south. I flip a coin and it lands on heads. I have to go! I am definitely not a climber but it seemed like a gorgeous that I just couldn`t pass up the opportunity knowing that I was so close. Plus I can take the next bus, right?

The next morning I pack up my small pack and head up to the Frey Refuge named for the popular climbing peak it is snuggled up against. Since I was only going for the night, I was not carrying much weight and made it up in 3 hours. It is located in this thin valley on the side of a glacial-fed lake overlooking the principal peak in the area called The Main Bull at about 2400 meters. We are about 1700 meters up so it is very brisk. The refuge had a kitchen where for a high price could have a tasty meal cooked for you by the 1 staff member and a central room filled with tables and sweet climbing shots. The dorm has mattresses layed all over the floor and on a layer of wooden platforms to keep your stuff. Most people camp though. At the high season, there can be up to 100 tents surrounding this little diamond but during my time there was more like 20 people.

I quickly make friends with the chef and the 2 serious climbers that have been staying there for some time over a chess game. I was only planning on staying the night and returning down the mountain to Bariloche but I couldn`t leave just yet. The next morning I did a quick hike to lookout point. At the top, the wind is gusting very strongly and the rain has started to roll in. I quickly snap some pictures of the 3 Kings peaks, Cerro Catedral and the view of National Park Nahuel Huapi within which I am hiking.

When I got back, the climbers invite me to go rockclimbing! I had expressed interest in at least being able to watch them climb that afternoon. But with the strong wind and oncoming rain, their climb for the day was botched. Instead, they offered to teach me at a nearby spot called Escuelita. They had never done this climb because, well, they are just too good for it. The chef lent me her gear (rope, helmet, harness, shoes, etc.) and I was pumped! Pela, the Argentinian of the 2 climbers, took me out to the rock. He scaled it easily. It was cool watching him navigate his way up this face finding places to lock in the rope in different caribeaners and other climbing gadgets. Meanwhile, I am at the bottom as his safety thinking to myself, ”Can I really do this?”.

Escuelita got its name because although it is one of the easier climbs in the area, it has a variety of tecnical areas. Therefore, it is a good spot to practice the different tecniques. The thing is that I have no tecnique! This is not a rock wall you find in a gym with plastic hold sticking out. The rock is rough and you are trying to wedge yourself between opposite sides of crevasses to create resistant to climb. I also quickly had to learn how to remove of the equipment Pela had placed on his way up! There was one spot in particular I failed the first three attempts to pass. I needed to blindly get my foot around a protuding rock and onto a tiny knot belly button level. I bloodied my hand a bit when I just went for it and ended up swinging around until I bounced back to some flat rock to regain my climbing position. Th fourth and final attempt I got it though. I do not know how but I did and that felt good!

Unfortunately, I couldn`t complete it. The last two meters tests your crack climbing skills. You need to stick your arm as far into the crack and make a fist. Using this, you pull yourself up and try to wiggle as much of your foot into the narrow crack as possible. It was more than difficult and without experience nearly impossible for me. The plus: this meant I got to rapel down the 60 feet I had climbed up instead of walking down the back.

We returned to refuge in the dark to a warm fire. The chef had made an incredible meal for an elderly couple and had enough extra to make a plate. She gave it to Pela and me as a treat after my experience.

I feel so lucky to have been able to do this. I would never have been able to have a basically free one on one rockclimbing lesson with a professional in one of the best spots in Argentina unless I had met these incredible people. I really hope that I can make someone else`s trip more special like these guys did for me.

My First Meal in Argentina

I am standing in the check out line at a supermarket in Bariloche, Argentina minding my own business. I had just crossed over from Chile because my visa ended that day. After a long bus ride, I just wanted to get some good food in me. On the conveyor belt I have pasta, pineapple, some juice, and tuna with the hopes of whipping up a creative dish. An elderly gentleman that is standing in front of me paying turns and examines what I am going to purchase; he was is pleased.

He starts to tell me how I need meat. I am in Argentina, I need meat for every meal!!! I offer up the tuna as an alternative. According to him, the best meat in the world comes from Argentina and it would not be wise of me to miss out on an opportunity to try it!

Then he asks where I am from. Normally I say New York; no one has usually heard of Connecticut unless they are from the States. Suddenly he burst into song! Very loudly, he starts to serenade me with an old jazz tune clearly about New York. I am definitely a bit embarrassed but it brought a smile to my face.

I thank him for the song, pay, and eat a terrific first meal in Argentina.

Chao Chiloe!

I tried! The social work job never worked out.

At the end of the 3rd week, Dr. Jaime´s boss requested that I write an official letter to request permission to work there. Uhh, shouldn´t the organization that sent me here already have done this? At that point it became clear that ELI really did not fulfill anything they promised me and I would not be able to really accomplish anything within my last week. After many correspondences with ELI, they have agreed to give me a refund! I cannot believe that I am saying this but I think that going through Senior Project my last year in high school really helped. Effective communication among other things that Senior Project tries to teach were key in this negotiation. It is still extremely difficult for me to stand up for myself at times but I had to be realistic that the collapse of this placement was not my fault.

It was a huge disappointment and left me in an uncomfortable position having to tell my host family that I would be ending my time there early. It was a huge relief when they were so happy that I had gotten the refund and they invited me to stay with them until originally planned even though I would not be working. I had tons of things still planned that I wanted to get follow through on so I took them up on their offer.

My last 2 weeks were full of lots of time in the house enjoying the family & friends and 2 terrific camping trips. I went to an asado with a traditional Chilean barbeque for my host uncle`s birthday. I took my little sister on her first group date which was cute! I also have tons of little stories about the kids which are balls of energy themselves. Probably one of the funniest is when the moms and I went out for a night on the town, Emilio stole and ate about 5 pieces of the blackberry pie that we had made that day. We came back to the house that morning at the height of the incident. Emilio had just puked the bright purple pie all over the bedroom floor, white sheets & comforter, and covered his twin sister who was sleeping next to him. The babysitter was more than frazzled!

I feel like I made the most of my time there. Although the placement didn`t work, I was still able to live with an incredible family and got to know some really impressive people. Chiloe is distinct from the rest of Chiloe not only environmentally, but also through the mystic sea culture and note-worthy slow pace of life. To be able to get a general understanding of this unique location was a special experience in and of itself!

One con. My breakfasts and dinners normally consisted of pan, butter or marmelade, and tea with sugar or hot chocolate. With all the rain and time waiting for a chance to go to a meeting etc., it was not possible to be my active self. Let`s just say I definitely put on some pounds in the last month. Hopefully I can get back in shape during my next placement. Bring on the fruits and veggies!!!

5 Minute Snapshot of My Host Family

It is a little 4 Pm yesterday and I am happily chowing down on lunch with includes clams fresh out of the sand with rice and beans. My moms, Paola and Marinela, said they would be back around 1:30 for lunch, but this is Chiloe and they didn’t return until after 3. To my left is Alex, the German man living in my foyer, and Marinela; Paola left to walk the kids home from school. An excited yell from outside breaks the silence of us hungrily eating. We glance at each other to acknowledge that the kids have arrived. About a minute or so later Amarai, 6, comes sprinting into the house with a lollipop dangling from her mouth. She says that she behaved well in school today with a very rare case for this girl. She is soon followed by her twin brother, Emilio, who gazes at the jug of juice on the table. He runs up to the table and pours himself a glass. Aurora, 6, and Martina, 10, are the last to stroll in with Paola.

And now the madness begins…

Once Amarai leaves the room, it doesn’t take long for her siblings to rat on her. She sold all of the food that her mom sent with her to school for 100 pesos, which is the equivalent of 20 cents, so she could buy a lollipop. Paola is annoyed considering all the food probably cost about 3 dollars in reality. When she goes to scold Amarai, Amarai lies and said she didn’t sell the food. She is sent into time out crying. Meanwhile, Marinela takes the juice from Emilio and asks him to go take of his uniform. He refuses. After shouting `No, no, no…`in Marinela`s face, he is also sent into time out crying. Simultaneously Aurora enters the living half-naked. She has tried to take the blouse of her school uniform off by pulling it over her head. Her hands and head are now stuck inside the shirt when she runs into a chair and falls. She is now crying. While the moms are dealing with 3 crying children, Martina tries to fill a glass with juice from the large, glass jug. It slips and crashes to the ground next to me. Juice and glass covers not only the floor, but also the table and me. Her eyes grow wide and she runs to the kitchen to grab a towel. Alex and I gaze at each other. This is the best form of birth control anyone can have.

And all this happens within a timeframe of 5 minutes.

The little munchkins (the three 6 yr olds) playing with the neighbor`s motorcycle

Martina (purple) on her first group date I took her on

Roughing housing with Marinela

The main house where I spend most of time

Pros & Cons of Traveling as a Young Female

Cons:
Ø You are by yourself. There is no one else to rely on or help you on your journey. All responsibilities fall on you.
Ø It can get lonely at times. Although it is easy to surround yourself with other travellers or locals, sometimes you just crave to have a close friend or family member nearby to talk to you. Any small reminder, like emails or familiar activities that trigger memories of home, go a really long way.
Ø In some instances, you are limited with what you can do. Going to distant, new places solo makes you more vulnerable. It is highly recommended against going out after dark if you are by yourself and especially if you a woman.
Ø If you are with male acquaintances, you are rarely hassled. But try to walk into to town or down the street by yourself, and car horns, comments, whistles, and wandering eyes follow you wherever you go. It makes me feel a bit more than self-conscious.
Ø Being young, you can sometimes feel out of place when you are surrounded by people much older. They have many more life experiences that are so far in your future you can only dream of them. And they also big, adult problems that you can only relate to via movies and TV.

Pros:
> You are by yourself. You have the great opportunity to be challenged on how to live in foreign countries, adjust to new living situations, and plan where you are going next and how to get there.
> Unless you love solitude, in someway, you are forced to meet new people while travelling. It is so much easier to do so when solo. People are much more comfortable to reach out to you and vice versa.
> You can do what you want, when you want, how you want! Yes, at times it can be great to have a travel buddy, but not always. Imagine how difficult it is to find activities that both people love to every single day. Many couples use it as a relationship test just because it can be so challenging to travel with another person. If you are flying solo, there is no one there to stop you or slow you down.
> General travel is easier if there is only one person with a massive pack strapped on their back trying to stuff themselves into a crowded bus or a busy hostel.
> Being a young, single girl, people have been very to help me out. Who would you rather pick up invite to stay in your house, a lone girl or a pack of middle-aged men? Not to say that is better or worse than the other, but people tend to pick the first. Some people see me as vulnerable and innocent; therefore they tend to keep an eye out for me.
> I feel about 20 is the perfect age to travel. You are on this indescribable cusp of something. You are still young enough to easily connect with little kids and play goofy games, yet still old enough to bond and enjoy the company of adults. It is a terrific mix and enables you to know a more diverse group of people.
> This is based solely off observation: younger travellers can take advantage of more travel options than older. You can see travellers of all ages roaming cities, basking in the sun on beaches, and partaking in the more common tourist activities. The travellers who participate in more extreme adventures, who trek to great heights & lengths, who go to much more isolated places definitely tend to sit much more on the age scale. Not usually 19, but still younger.

Please add more Pros & Cons that I have missed. There are definitely way more but I am flying right now after 4 cups of very caffeinated tea so my choo-choo train of though is going off the tracks at the moment.

My Top 3 Spanish Slip-Ups

- Three times I have dropped extremely inappropriate slang words at extremely inappropriate moments; one of them being in a meeting with my boss

- I asked an elderly woman if she wears diapers

-While trying to describe to my host mom that I slept in a ball last night because of the cold, I actually told her that I slept naked

Me being goofy, as always

School Starts

Yesterday morning we got the kids all dressed up in their school uniforms and walked them to their first day of school. It was a difficult process though. With 4 kids all wearing the same uniform and 3 of them all being the same size, it seemed as if every item of clothing had to go on at least 2 kids before finding the right owner. I never thought that kids could be so eager to get to school. They downed their breakfasts and were yelling at Paola to hurry up and eat so they could get to class. It was so cute!

And today was the birthday of one of the 6 yr old girls, Aurora. The moms, Alex, our grandfather, Aurora`s dad and I set up a party in my front lawn. We had streamers and balloons, tons of candy and a delicious cake. There were about 10 kids that ran around screaming and playing all afternoon and into the night. We did face painting and even had a piñata. Grandpa cooked a terrific BBQ while the women sat back and drank pisco sours to enjoy International Women’s Day. Doesn’t it sound a lot like a typical little girl’s birthday party back home?

Chilling on Chiloe

Well, the job is not really working out. That little job description about the algae is just a project that Paola, my host mom, is trying to start. I have no idea what ELI was planning that I do when they sent me here. I have been making the best of it though. My host mom Paola has hooked me up with the company she is working with to start the project in the municipal health office. The man Paola is working with, Jaime, is a doctor that travels to smaller communities to set up clinics there. I went to a consultation with him on Friday. I was also able to sit down and talk with the social worker there too, Erica, but she needs to speak with her boss until I can really come and be of any help to her. In terms of me ´working´ so far, that is the extent of it after a week and a half. It is little disappointing but it is hard to be upset when I am having such a terrific time anyway.

Just because the job isn’t working, doesn’t mean I am not loving the island. I have already made some good friends here. Most are extensions from the family but that is OK with me. My `uncle` has offered to be my mini tour guide so we have gone out on little adventures around the island. Also, Paola has introduced me to a neighbour who is really big into kayaking. We have only gone out once so far but we are planning more trips to spots around the island. I signed myself up for a girl’s soccer team here with a woman from the office. That starts next week which should be fun to be a part of a team and continue staying active. I walk a lot here I have must admit that I have been indulging a bit in all the little snacks lying around the house for the kids.

The only thing is that only 1 of these people is under the age of 30 other than me. I do kind of stand out as the young one but I definitely hold my own! I would like to meet some younger people but I must say that it might be weird now just because I have become accustomed to an older crowd.

Chiloe itself is beautiful. I have lucked out with beautiful, bright, sunny weather every day so far. The city of Castro is great as well. It has everything I would every need but it is still tiny and low-key just like the rest of the island. It is right on the water and is known for the houses that are on stilts plus this great church in the plaza. I constantly forget that I am on the ocean until the tide moves out. I think the best part though is the people. Everyone has been so friendly and helpful; it is also really safe. You never really need to worry about being robbed; you can leave your bike out on the street without an worries. Also hitchhiking is the way to go here, it is part of the culture which I think just goes to show how relaxed it is here. Another thing that I love about the people is how proud they are to be Chilote. I have learned so much from people just being eager to talk about their culture. The stilt houses, the make their boats by hand out of wood, myths, places to go, and so much traditional foods!! It will be really easy to spend a month here.

I am proud to announce that I have my OWN first house! Ah I feel like an adult! EEEEeee! J ! It is green on the outside and orange on the inside. It has a bathroom, and a kitchen, and an entry room (I don’t know what it is called) and my bedroom with a smaller room attached. I have this great sky window directly above my bed to look at the stars before I go to sleep. I have big windows that look out to my apple tree and garden. It is perfect! I am next door neighbours to my family, less than 50 meters away. (FYI- I think in meters and stuff now). It is great because I have a nice, large, quiet space to myself. Then I just walk next door for meals etc. I am only missing a dresser. My little sister came in today and she commented on how my room was a little messy because all of my clothes were on the floor. She just didn’t realize that they were in organized piles on the floor.

The next awesome item on the list is my family. Together we are seven. 2 moms (sisters), 1 foreigner*, 1 ten yr old girl, and 3 feisty six yr olds (a twin boy and girl, and a cousin). Just by stepping out the front door, I can hear the screams coming from the house. They are a handful; but also very sweet and loving. I love getting my goodnight hugs and kisses. My moms are so cool. They are 39 & 36 and so freaking hip. They are really relaxed and friendly. As you may have noticed, I did not mention any pops. They both separated very shortly after giving birth to the twins so they have been living together helping each other out. It is easy to recognize that these are both very strong women. It is a happy household but it is hard on them. Still they are extremely social. There is a group of about 5 people who cycle through the house daily. Now referring to the ´*´. One of them is this complete hippy German guy named Alex. He passes through here every year and has been friends of the moms for years. For the last week he has been sleeping on the floor of my entry room. He spends his mornings sleeping, afternoons making jewellery, and nights selling the jewellery. We get along great; I am sad to think he is moving out next week. We also have a dog and 2 cats. One of the cats had a litter before I came so we have had 6 little fur balls crawling around the house getting tortured by the kids but we are slowly giving them away.

If it weren’t for an awesome location and an ideal host family I think my spirits would be a bit lower about the job. But in all honestly I am having too much fun!

Port Hopping

With a week free until my second job, I got back to travelling. I had to pass through the city of Puerto Montt which is kind of the last easily accessible place South

. As a jumping off point for Patagonia it is great; other than that there is nothing that interesting about the city. From here I went to Puerto Varas which is only about 20 minutes inland but much more beautiful. The German influence in this lakeside city is evident at every corner. It has a gorgeous beach that looks across the large lake to 2 snow-covered volcanoes.

With the warm, sunny weather, I took my towel to beach to soak up some rays. When I returned to my hostel, I had a terrific surprise waiting for me. Will McNiel, a fellow student from my Carpe Diem Semester this past fall, was staying in the same hostel while travelling with his father. It was a shock for both us! I made us tasty pizzas for dinner and we talked and talked and talked about everything we have done since the program ended in mid December.

During my 1 full day there, I decided to invest and go canyoning! It’s an adventure sport I had never really heard of before or had the opportunity to do so I thought “What the heck! Why not?” They suited me up in a wetsuit, helmets, gloves, and sneakers. We spent about 4 hours working our way down this pristine river in the center of a national park about an hour outside the city. The water had carved out lots of tiny rushing slides for us to go down, tons of waterfalls to float off of, and many high rock ledges to jump from. The highest one was about 14 meters or 46 feet; it was so much fun. With the wetsuits on, I never felt the sting of my skin hitting the water. To finish off the afternoon we all rappelled down the side of a 35 meter waterfall. I was surprised how much fun I had. If there was something like that around where I lived, I would be ecstatic.

The next morning we slept in before we headed up north about 4 hours to spend the weekend in Valdivia where they were having their yearly “Night of Valdivia” festival. Valdivia is located where 3 rivers converge before emptying out into the Pacific. The fish market is home to families of sea lions. They just come right up to railing to bathe on the warm cement or linger nearby waiting for fish to be tossed over to them. It is like paradise for these guys.We spent our day on this boat tour exploring the rivers which use to act as a base for the Spaniards when theyheld power here. We made two stops to explore ruins and watch a re-enactment of when the Chileans reclaimed their land. We didn’t learn much from the guide because his Spanish was so difficult to understand and we were the only foreigners there so we just goofed around the fortresses while he talked.

The festival was so much fun! Will and I spent our evening roaming around the fair trying all the different types of street food. It was delicious! When it got really dark there was a parade of river boats. They were all decorated with strings of lights and had music playing. Some people went all out and had large floats constructed around their boats. The festivities finished off with a great firework show over the thousands of people that lined the riverside. It was a great ending to a great weekend. In the early morning hours Will had to head back to Puerto Montt for a flight and I had leave midday to the island of Chiloe where I am going to be based for the next month.

The organization that I now plan to be working with as a social work volunteer is called ELI Abroad. They have arranged for me to work on a project involving sustainability education in local communities around the island with a focus on the women who collect algae. Going into it, the details that I have are limited but I have high hopes for this job. I will be staying with a family on the outskirts of town in my own private house! My first house! I am really excited for this placement also because I would love to have the opportunity to explore the mystic island of Chiloe.

The Fast & Furious Futaleufu

A week of pure adrenaline was just what I needed. I had no idea what I was getting myself into when I travelled down to the sleepy town of Futaleufu in Northern Patagonia to join my Dad on his 60^th Birthday Adventure Trip. He planned for us 10 days of rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, and trekking alongside one of the top 5 commercial rafting rivers in the world! There are not many other rivers that can say they have nearly the same power, rapids, or beauty.

We were based at this beautiful campsite right along the banks of where Rio Azul feeds into the Futaleufu. To get to the campsite, one had to climb down from the road and have a staff member row you across to the camp. This barefoot friendly area had its own tranquil beach. My favourite place to be was in the hammock with the river rushing past me and with the mountain known as the Three Nuns looming overhead. After an intense day, my Dad loved to hit up the sauna to relax. I honestly was spoiled there. A couple, Gary & Divine, constantly fed us with some of the best comida I could have dreamed. Every meal was a large buffet but you had to go before the guides because otherwise there would be absolutely none left.

Those guides work hard and play hard. They are some of the best kayakers that I have ever met. They make class 5 rapids look easy.

While there we did one day of mountain biking and sea kayaking. It had been a while since I had last been on my bike but eventually I got use it. It was gorgeous ride; I never minded stopping just because every turn we made or every hill we climbed had a new sight for us to admire. We biked to a nice lake to have lunch; then we hopped into some boats and spent 2 hours out on the water. It was nice to use some other muscles and get off those seats. We took the same route back and shared Valentine’s Day gifts. I did not feel so far from home with my Dad and a card from my mom.

We also went on a little 2 day trek into the Valle Bonita (Pretty Valley). We hiked alongside a long lake with 4 glaciers on the other side. We had the great opportunity to stay in our local guide’s waterfront property in a little cabin. We used this time to talk and catch up about what had been happening in our lives since we last saw each other. We climbed the hill to house to have dinner and breakfast with him, his wife Marisel and his 2 very young children. It was extremely interesting just to spend one night with them and learn about how they lived. I know that my Dad really enjoyed. The trek would have been for longer but I think that we just missed the river way too much.

I absolutely LOVED rafting. Rapids mostly come in at Class 4 but there are many Class 5. The Futa is absolutely packed from top to bottom; the longest stretch of flat water is about 2 kilometers. The river break down into 3 parts: The Wild Mile, The Terminator Section and Bridge to Bridge. Every single day was different even though I had completed the whole river by the third day. Some highlights include flipping in Casa del Piedra (5+), breaking an oar while surfing in Mundaca`s Hole which is big enough to swallow a small bus, accidently running over our safety kayaker, and finally swimming through the Terminator section.

It was hard to leave this place that I felt a strong bond to. I fell in love with the river and would love to return. The crew was friendly and the camp was gorgeous. My Dad got to stay for another week to kayak. The time I got to spend with him was special. He still treats me at as a kid sometimes but I know that he views me as a friend as well. It was tough when I drove away without my Dad. But that is the story of travelling. You go to new places and meet interesting people, but at some point you need to leave. You would think it gets easier but it just gets more difficult as they accumulate over time.

I know that this time with my Dad will be one of the highlights of my entire year abroad.